Currently chasing waves along the north coast of Panama,
Captain Liz recounts a pre-turkey day Surfing Magazine
photo shoot in Costa Rica, spreads the word about massive
biodiesel super boats, and admits that she actually misses the
surf-starved shores of Santa Barbara.
The boatload of boys and I awaited the swell’s arrival at
Witch’s Rock (pictured below), enjoying small peeling a-frames and
clear water. That night we feasted on the last of the dorado we’d
caught, but soon afterwards I snuck away with a handful of
chocolate and a pillow and roosted on the foredeck. Between the
silhouette of the Rock and Orion overhead, I forgot about the pain
in my ears from both the infection and the male-oriented
conversations.
The next morning the swell came up and Dan Jenkins and I worked
the inside rights for some photos. I’ve learned that the world
behind surf photos isn’t always as glamorous as it appears on the
shiny pages of magazines.
come together to make the photo good: the waves have to be on, then
the sun and light need to be right, and there’s usually a crowd
factor. Then I have to catch the wave and do something worth
photographing without making a stupid face. The photographer has to
have the camera on the right settings, have the person in focus, be
in the right place, and push the shutter at the right moment.