Boutique Bubbly Bash

It’s been five years since Doug Margerum curated his formerly annual holiday champagne soirée at the Wine Cask, the restaurant and onetime wine store that he owned for decades, sold in 2007, and then — when the new owners nearly ran it into the ground — bought it back in 2009. This Sunday, December 11, he’s beginning the tasting tradition anew, complete with all of the impossible-to-find boutique champagne makers from France that Margerum, who makes his own wine and also imports a fair amount, has come to know over the years. At $125 a ticket, it’s not exactly a cheap way to spend your Sunday night, but if you’re at all interested in making the bubbly stuff part of your holiday season, then you’d be hard-pressed to find a better opportunity to taste and purchase (at greatly reduced costs, mind you) these mostly rare treats.

“It’s kind of a Christmas party for our customers and friends,” said Margerum, who explained that each wine will be paired with classic accompaniments, such as oysters, caviar, smoked trout, smoked salmon, or other specialties prepared by chef Brandon Hughes. “It’s been fun to put it back together again.”

This year, there will be 14 sparkling wines, 11 of which are true Champagnes from Champagne, France (ranging in price from about $36 to $78), with the other three coming from New Mexico’s Gruet Winery, Mendocino County’s Roederer Estates, and an Italian prosecco, which is the cheapest offering at about $12. There will be blanc de blancs (which are chardonnay-based), blanc de noirs (which are pinot noir-based), rosés, and vintage offerings as well.