Big Sur photographer Kodiak Greenwood (right) and The Indy’s Editor-at-Large Ethan Stewart traveled to the French capital earlier this month to chronicle the United Nations’ historic Climate Change Conference. Enduring bomb scares, marathon workdays, and what Stewart described as the “the Burning Man of the environmental movement,” the duo recaps their trip to the poignant City of Light in this week’s cover story. Here, they mug for Kodi’s camera in front of one of 12 massive hunks of glacier ice imported from Greenland as part of a melting art installation near the Pantheon named simply “Ice Watch Paris.”