A number of regular offerings at Jeff and Janet Olsson’s Industrial Eats in Buellton would easily be in the running for best bite in Santa Barbara County — the revelatory uni on oyster shooters, for instance, could win over even the shellfish squeamish — but I’m confident that these pancetta-wrapped shrimp could compete for that title any day of the week. Jeff wraps Mexican white shrimp with his house-made pancetta, fries them briefly in olive oil, tosses in the pizza oven to crisp the pork, adds garlic and red jalapeños, deglazes with white wine, finishes with butter parsley, lemon, and salt, and serves atop toasted ciabatta. The resulting texture is snappy yet soft, fresh yet fire-roasted, and the hunger-satisfying richness is enlivened by acidic citrus, brisk spice, and tart wine, with each component crescendoing as the next chord is plucked. When your ciabatta can’t sop up any more juice, just make sure no one is looking and drink it down. $10; 181 Industrial Wy., Buellton; (805) 688-8807; industrialeats.com
